Sep 24 2015: This document, widely reprinted on other websites, was first posted on iammyownreporter.com in the summer of 2004 during my fifth visit to Cuba. It was last thoroughly updated in the spring of 2007, during my seventh and last visit. So most of the present tense references in it relate to 2007. I review Cuban news through other sources linked from this site every day, and a few other certainly valid changes have been made since then. I intended to return to Cuba for an eighth visit this month, September 2015, but old age (I'm 79) and a debilitating condition called post herpetic syndrome following a shingles attack almost a year and a half ago that refuses to go away are keeping me pinned down. When I do return, in spite of the embargo that still technically exists but which I and a lot of other Americans more alert than your local newspaper editor continue to ignore, I will, of course, revise this document, but I'm pretty sure that it is already the most objectively true account of Cuba that you're likely to find on the internet. But, if you're reading this on someone else's site, I advise you to supplement it by going to my site and reading at least "Cubans Choose Socialism" (a 56-page survey of 100 Cubans I questioned in 2002), and "Cuban Notebooks" (the already posted part of a book I've been trying for years now to write on the internet recounting my personal experiences on the island AND in the rest of Latin America from 1989 to 2007).
The day before we flew out of Tijuana
for Havana in 2000, the San Diego Union ran a letter to the editor from
a Cuban "exile" who hadn't seen Cuba for 41 years but claimed
to still miss the little dog he'd had as a boy and to be very sad that
now "there are no dogs or cats in Cuba because the poor starving
people have eaten them all." I lay awake the next night in Havana
listening to yowling cats. During the next 3 weeks of extensive travel,
I saw cats and dogs everywhere I went, but I saw no starving people.
1. Cubans earn $8 a month. Wrong! Nonsense. Except for some Cubans working in the tourist sector for tips, Cubans aren't paid in dollars at all. In fact, the Cuban minimum salary has just been changed to 225 pesos a month. If they buy dollars, which they don't really need, 225 pesos equals about $9. But so what? If they buy almost anything else, things they need, 225 pesos is worth a little more than $225 is worth in California. Green beans cost almost the same in pesos in Cuba as they cost me in dollars in the town where I live in California. Buying fruits, vegetables, and other basic foods in a mercado, a peso in Cuba is worth a bit more than a dollar is worth in California. Bus fare in the city is 40 centavos, which makes a whole peso worth about $2.50 - compared to any city in America where bus fare is still only a dollar. What pesos are worth on the foreign exchange is irrelevant to most Cubans. In fact, dollars and euros are now irrelevant in Cuba, where tourists must buy and use Convertible Pesos, a unit the value of which the Cuban government sets, and what tourists can buy with their CPU's, which cost them OVER a dollar each (about $1.25 last time I checked), is largely irrelevant, too, since Cubans are often charged less than tourists. Most necessities tourists traveling in Cuba find reasonable for one convertible peso now cost Cubans 1 peso or less. Since house payments in Cuban pesos are usually 10% of a person's salary, any monthly salary, in terms of housing, is equal to $6,000 to $10,000 a month in California. The best or most important things in life are free. I told an insurance salesman the health plan I wanted, describing the ordinary plan every Cuban has, and he estimated I'd pay something over $1,000 a month for it. In fact, salaries in Cuba are only paid at all as a way to let people eat and dress and recreate according to their individual tastes. Necessities are virtually free or subsidized generously. So a Cuban's salary actually includes all the benefits of the system his participation buys, including all the subsidies, all the free benefits, AND the cash salaries paid. Salaries are, in fact, only for extras, and they are adequate for sensible people.
2. Cubans eat only one meal a day. Wrong! This is an example of typical Miami warp. Because Cuba guarantees every child up to 7 a healthy ration of milk, no matter how tough times are, the "exiles" claim 8-year-old kids aren't "allowed" to drink milk. In fact, free meals are served in schools and on the job, and Cubans get at least enough subsidized food on the ration for one meal a day at home. This can easily be doubled for 20 pesos a month or tripled for 40. This system ensures people can eat enough (I personally get fat on one meal a day; how about you?) and lets them decide what 1/3 to 2/3 of their food will be (it's virtually a saying in Cuba that Cubans eat 3 times a day). They also eat lots of ice cream and cheese, there's plenty of powdered and canned milk, and as the number of dairy cows grows and new breeds are added, there is more milk every year.
3. Cubans live in miserable slums. Wrong! In fact, the only slum in Cuba is Old Havana, foolishly (in my opinion) kept for the tourists. Most Cubans who once lived in shanties now live in institutional apartment buildings, just like most Spaniards. A substantial number live in old houses considered substandard by the government and scheduled to be replaced. But very few of those have dirt floors. Far more live in 50's era homes that are perfectly alright. More and more are living in new apartments and casitas that put the Russian concept Cuba accepted for too long to shame. The only dirt floored shanty towns (actually some small clusters) I have seen in Cuba are the unnecessary, non-systemic result of a minority of refuseniks who abandon good houses in their home towns to come to Havana or Santiago to hustle dollars. One of their scams is to show off their artificial poverty to foolish tourists for donations. Most small cities in Cuba are nice to beautiful places where there's nothing that looks like a slum.
4. The embargo causes intense suffering and many deaths. Wrong! In fact, almost no other country observes the embargo. Certainly, it causes problems, because America should be a closer and cheaper source of many things Cuba, which is an island of limited resources, regularly buys. But Mexico is just as close. Venezuela, a major oil producer, is now very friendly. Cuba makes most of its own medicines; I ask in every pharmacy I pass and they always tell me they fill virtually all prescriptions; and when I went to the Ministry of Health and asked for a list of actually critical medical needs, I got a very short list. Most importantly, the absence of any general suffering in Cuba is dramatically visible to the naked eye.
5. Cuba is guilty of gross human rights abuses. Wrong! Punch up human rights and Cuba on your Computer and read stories in the New York Times about how the U.N. Human Rights Commission, Amnesty International, and the Red Cross all rated Cuba's justice system as normal, i.e. no better or worse than ours. That was before the Bush administration. In the last 4 years, Cuba has been way above the U.S. in the area of human rights. While Cuba was being criticized for executing 3 terrorists and for jailing 75 people proven to be working for and in the pay of a foreign power self proclaimed to be Cuba's enemy for the purpose of sabotaging the Cuban system, the Bush administration was being criticized and protested by millions of people all over the world for killing, maiming, and crippling thousands of people for no acceptable reason, and for jailing nobody even knows how many people for no known reason. Did I make that up?
6. There's a cop on every corner. Wrong! This is a favorite of embedded reporters who haven't been on every corner. In fact, there is a substantial police presence in tourist concentration zones, which means single cops or pairs, with tiny guns or no guns, on foot, whose main function is to makes sure nothing happens to the tourists (including a possible staged incident to justify an attack). Walk one block away from the tourist zone and keep walking and you may not see another cop all day. There is very little police presence in Cuba and almost no military presence.
7. Harsh conditions have given rise to a Cuban sex industry. Wrong! This is a lie spread by Miami. There is no actual sex industry in Cuba. A lot of Cubans say that sex is the national sport. Cuban girls are widely regarded as the world's champion flirters. There's little religion. There's total health care and sex education, and unabashed birth control availability. It's hot and clothing is light. But there are no red light districts, no houses, few pimps, and no real need to sell one's body. There is a tiny amount of professional prostitution, and there's a fair amount of amateurism in tourist centers, and there are gold diggers exploiting foreign boyfriends or girlfriends. But this isn't rampant, and is without the manner or method of a sex industry. More important, it is not motivated by harsh conditions. It is motivated by silly desire for showy clothes and other status symbols glamorized in American movies and TV and further promoted by Miami relatives and the insidious presence of what look like rich tourists to the Cubans, because the government has opted for the wrong kind of tourism (against Fidel's advice I've heard).
8. Oppressed Cubans long to be freed from the yoke
of communism. Wrong! On this website,
you can read a 56 page report of a survey
I conducted in Cuba to verify whether 98% of the Cuban electorate really
signed a petition to lock socialism into their constitution. I conducted
the survey because I don't believe U.S. media or politicians about Cuba.
I found out for myself that Cubans are mostly happy with their system,
with their leaders, and with their lives.
9. Cubans are brainwashed.
Americans are brainwashed! Almost everyone is brainwashed,
and the slickest, most pervasive, most relentless brainwashing machine
10. Cuba is the only country in the hemisphere
still not free. Absurdly wrong!
I've seen most of the major Latin American countries and Cuba is the
one country most clearly not a police state. And yet all of Cuba, including
in the old downtowns, is free of the fear of economically desperate
people that is common in other countries, because Cuba is free of economic
desperation. Free? A lot of things that cost too much elsewhere are
free or almost free in Cuba because everything critical is subsidized.
Good housing in Cuba is almost free. Pervasive education and health
care with nutritional guarantees are truly free and as
universal and democratic as the laws of physics, biology, and geography
11. Cubans are constantly fleeing in boats to freedom in Miami. Wrong! In fact, every time a few Cubans paddle a boat to Florida you read about it in the paper, so, as in the case of great white shark attacks, you get the impression of more action than there is. Furthermore, the trickle of boaters aren't necessarily "fleeing." Children, like Elian Gonzalez, are just taken. Some adults, like Elian's mother, are foolishly following their crazy partners. Most are playing a cruel and dangerous game Washington deliberately entices them to play. By refusing to grant many visas but letting it be known that any Cuban who illegally sets foot on a U.S. beach will be welcome, Washington creates the false impression you get. It's called propaganda, it's brutally cynical, and both you and the Cubans are the victims. But, in fact, Cuba is not a police state, Cubans are not oppressed and, compared to other Latin Americans, very few of them want to leave Cuba.
12. Castro (which now means Raul to some and still means Fidel to idiots) makes all the decisions. Wrong! One man couldn't run a small town by himself. But Fidel never ran Cuba alone. And neither does Raul. Neither is a medical expert or an agricultural expert or a building trades specialist. Fidel is amazingly well versed and smarter and more articulate than any American president since Jefferson, which is why it would have been a bad idea to replace him ever and it's too bad he got old. But he never ran Cuba by himself. In Cuba, they know that and everybody still thinks that everything that goes wrong goes wrong because Fidel doesn't know about it.
13. Fidel Castro is one of the bad guys. Wrong! That's in the context of the comic book version of contemporary world history that Americans accept from their mass media. Outside the U.S. bubble, Fidel was the most highly respected chief of state in the world. American presidents avoided contact with him because they knew he would upstage them. This happened to George Bush Sr. in Rio, where (1) the press corps followed Fidel around and ignored Bush, (2) Fidel got a long standing ovation and there was only polite clapping for Bush, and when Fidel said from the platform that capitalism threatens the ecosystem as much as overpopulation, the house monitors caught Bush fidgeting and everyone laughed. * American media stick religiously to the myth that Castro's status was only due to his defiance toward the U.S. But, in fact, he was and still is respected for his intelligence, for his credibility, and for successfully making Cuba a good place for its citizens to live.
14. DO YOU REMEMBER THIS MYTH THAT IS NOW AS ANTIQUE AS CUBA'S 50's MODEL CARS?: Nobody knows, the embedded media experts used to say, what will happen when Fidel Castro
dies. Hey! Fidel isn't yet dead, but he's been retired for years and that myth was OBVIOUSLY WRONG!, though please note US media have never admitted that they were wrong, that they either didn't know what they were talking about or were always lying. Below, read, first, what I wrote on January 1, '07, and then what I had already written in March'04. January
1 '07: Six months after Fidel called in sick and
his vice president took over, the answer to the question,
"But what will happen when Fidel is gone?" is not
exactly NOTHING but certainly NO PROBLEM. The explanation
below was posted over two years ago in the spring or summer
of '04. In a mid-December ('06) speech explaining his own
standing, Raul Castro could have been reading this website.
But I didn't use a crystal ball; I used real research and
common sense, very sensibly ignoring Miami, Washington, and
the U.S. media, none of whom have acknowledged that their
sneering question has been answered and that they now owe
the public some red faces. Obviously, as Raul pointed out,
Cuba has been run by a lot of people for a long time and that
hasn't changed. For a better understanding of the relationship
between Cuba and Fidel Castro, read the document Viva
y Habla Fidel; also on this website since April '05.
January 1 '07: Six months after Fidel called in sick and his vice president took over, the answer to the question, "But what will happen when Fidel is gone?" is not exactly NOTHING but certainly NO PROBLEM. The explanation below was posted over two years ago in the spring or summer of '04. In a mid-December ('06) speech explaining his own standing, Raul Castro could have been reading this website. But I didn't use a crystal ball; I used real research and common sense, very sensibly ignoring Miami, Washington, and the U.S. media, none of whom have acknowledged that their sneering question has been answered and that they now owe the public some red faces. Obviously, as Raul pointed out, Cuba has been run by a lot of people for a long time and that hasn't changed. For a better understanding of the relationship between Cuba and Fidel Castro, read the document Viva y Habla Fidel; also on this website since April '05.
Misconceptions from the other side:
15. Cubans are all dancing and singing to the traditional island beat, playing dominoes and digging swell Santeria ceremonies. Wrong! Cuba has both good and bad music, and their best music, old and new, is obviously as good as music gets. But a lot of young Cubans unfortunately share the gross musical tastes of their counterparts everywhere and some of the best musical venues in the bigger cities are relatively neglected. Favorites from the 50's are choices only in places with lots of choices and son competes with salsa and even stupidly amplified rock in too many dance halls. Sidewalk domino games are a common sight in some parts of Havana and some other places. Walking all over Cuba, including Regla and Centro, I've personally never seen any sign of Santeria. I'm not very interested in it, so I'll concede that I'm probably not hip to the clues. I'm sure it's there, but I guarantee that it's a bigger deal to the tourists who find it than it is to most Cubans.
16. Habana Vieja is the real Cuba. Extremely wrong! Hip tourists who think the still existing historic squalor of Old and Centro Havana are funky and wonderful and what makes Cuba tick are wrong. The ugliness they think they cherish is left over from before the revolution when white flight turned downtown Havana into a typical capitalist slum. The government intends to restore all of that area, keeping it historic but making it a beautiful, healthy place to live, and they are making rapid progress. Gusanos who claim their photos and videos of the worst remaining enclaves of Old and Centro Havana show how all poor miserable Cubans live are liars. There are 11.2 million Cubans. Only the .2 (approximately, maybe) live in Old Havana and Centro and a lot of those have from perfectly OK to very nice homes. Most of the other 11 million live in neighborhoods that, to the eye, resemble all the levels of the middle class and sometimes the upper class in the San Joaquin Valley. That's to the eye. A range of free and near free benefits of the developing communist (but still transitional, i.e. socialist) system actually make their lives better than the eye can casually see. Hip tourists are strongly advised to learn Spanish and see the rest of Cuba.
Q: Where was this picture taken?
A: Not in Cuba! This picture or something like it could have been taken anywhere in Latin America except Cuba. It was taken in Tampico, Mexico, right before now former Mexican President Vicente Fox angered and disgraced the Mexican legislature and the Mexican people by supporting the Bush Administration's annual bid in Geneva to censure Cuba for human rights abuse. This scene is a human rights abuse, and it is a common one in Mexico, because shanties are an integral part of Mexico's typical laissez-faire capitalist system. In Cuba, shanties were abolished in 1959. Some illegal shanties have been built again during and since the depression of the early 90's, but they are nonsystemic. All substandard homes in Cuba are seriously slated for replacement.
Mystique - Castro's still got it